The 5 Royal Palaces in Seoul and Korean Historical Dramas
Watching Korean historical dramas makes me think about all the different palaces in Seoul. There were FIVE grand palaces by the end of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910). But I get confused about which one is which! So I did some research and here’s what I found out.
There was always one main royal residence and the other palaces were backup palaces for emergencies (like breakouts of fire or disease) etc.
So where did the kings live throughout the Joseon period? And what are the related historical dramas?
GYEONGBOKGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
Gyeongbokgung was the first palace built for the new dynasty when King Taejo came to the throne in 1392. It was used as the main palace and King’s residence for the first half of the Joseon period.
The king summoned Geomancers (aka fengshui experts) to find the most auspicious location and to design the layout of the palace. Then everything else in the capital was built around it.
Unfortunately, the palace was burned down during the Imjin Wars by angry peasants. (King Seonjo ran away to the north leaving the people to fight the Japanese invaders!) In the drama Kingdom, there’s a fire at the palace too, but (spoiler alert) it’s caused by the zombies!
Due to the fire damage, the King had to live elsewhere. But Gyeonbokgung was rebuilt and remained one of the two main palaces of the Joseon period.
So it saw the reign of the founder King Taejo. And 500 years later it saw the dramatic and tragic end of the Joseon Dynasty when Empress Myeongseong was assassinated at Gyeongbokgung in 1895.
Gyeongbokgung is the largest palace. The National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum of Korea are in the grounds.
Read about the Early Joseon Kings and Historical Dramas (1392-1494)
See the Chart of Joseon Kings and Related Korean Historical Dramas
Jewel in the Palace (MBC 2003)
CHANGDEOKGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
A kerfuffle (aka bloodbath) over the throne at the beginning of the Joseon dynasty meant another palace was needed!
According to the downloadable Changdeokgung guidebook, King Taejong (r.1400-1418) wasn’t feeling the vibes at Gyeongbokgung – even though the best geomancers in the country had designed the palace with all the features necessary for good fortune (like a mountain behind and strategically placed water features.)
So he built Changdeokgung in 1405. (Well, HE didn’t build it, obviously. He got the peasants to do it.) But he had a good reason for feeling uncomfortable at Gyeongbokgung:
Ambitious King Taejong had assassinated his half brothers and some high officials to grab the throne. Then he ‘encouraged’ his elder brother (King Jeongjong) to abdicate.
So the palace saw a lot of violence. Is that why Taejong didn’t want to live in Gyeongbokgung?
Years later, after fire damage during the Imjin wars (1592-98), Gwanghaegun rebuilt Changdeokgung in 1610 and it became the main palace until the end of the Joseon dynasty.
HANOK VILLAGE
An upperclass hanok village in Bukchon developed between the two palaces: Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung.
This is where the government officials lived and in dramas we often see them travelling back and fro by palanquin chair!
The hanok village is now a tourist attraction and most of the traditional houses have been turned into cafes and shops. And there are signs everyone begging the coach-loads of tourists to consider the local residents and keep the noise down!
(The residents are probably enjoying some peace and quiet during these coronavirus days though…)
The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung
The main attraction at Changdeokgung is probably the secret garden.
Two-thirds of the grounds at the palace are gardens which were a retreat for the royal family. They were used for all sorts of pastimes from composing poetry to hunting. But the Royals could also experience farming including raising silkworms!
In Deep Rooted Tree (SBS, 2011), I remember seeing King Sejong planting seeds and looking after crops in the royal grounds.
These days only guided tours are allowed into the Secret Garden at Changdeokgung.
Read about the mid Joseon Kings and Historical Dramas (1494-1649)
See the Chart of Joseon Kings and Related Korean Historical Dramas
Jung Yi, Goddess of Fire (MBC 2013)
CHANGGYEONGGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
Next door to Changdeokgung is Changgyeonggung.
King Sejong (r.1418-1450) had the palace built for his father, King Taejong (after he abdicated). And it also became residential quarters for queens and concubines.
The gardens of this palace and neighbouring Changdeokgung were actually connected and there was a rice field in these gardens for the king.
Then, during the Occupation (1910-1945) the palace became a zoo (I didn’t see that one coming!) with elephants and merry-go-rounds and botanical gardens! But it was called Changgyeong Park at the time (not Palace) and changed back to a palace in 1983.
see more from dramasrok about life in Korea on Facebook Pinterest and Instagram
DEOKSUGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
Since all three palaces had fire damage during the Imjin wars (1592-98), the Royals needed another home! So a nearby residence belonging to members of the royal family became Deoksugung.
Deoksugung is opposite City Hall in central Seoul. And every day the Changing of the Guard reenactment takes place in front of Daehanmun Gate.
Tourists wear rented hanboks and take photos of the ceremony with their mobile phones. Meanwhile, office workers stroll past sipping take-out coffees.
Emperor Gojong
After the assassination of Empress Myeongeong (aka Queen Min), King Gojong moved to Deoksugung in 1897 and founded the Korean Empire.
So now he became Emperor Gojong, but the empire only lasted until 1910 when the country was colonised by Japan.
The architecture of the buildings in Deoksogung is different to the other palaces as there is more foreign influence here. (I’ll look at that in another post).
Read about late Joseon kings and related historical dramas (1649-1910
MMCA Deoksugung (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art)
In the grounds of Deoksugung is a branch of the MMCA.
The museum is sharing more of its exhibitions online now. Here’s a video with English subs presented by the museum curator in the grounds of the palace.
The curator makes some interesting points about how the meaning of architecture has changed over the years: She explains that in Joseon times, palace architecture was a kind of media for spreading the king’s message to the people!
see more from dramasrok about life in Korea on Facebook Pinterest and Instagram
GYEONGHUIGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
We’ve looked at the main palaces now, but there were a couple more. This one became a second palace in times of emergency in the second half of the Joseon period. But most of the palace buildings are gone now.
Gyeonghuigung is an annex of Seoul History Museum.
UNHYEONGUNG (GUNG = PALACE)
Finally, Unhyyeonggung. This was originally the private residence of Emperor Gojong’s father, Prince Regent Heungseon (Heungseon Daewongun 1820-1898).
King Gojong was born here and moved out when he became King, aged 12 (1852). He also got married to Empress Myeongseong here and so reenactments of their wedding take place every spring and autumn.
Read about late Joseon kings and related historical dramas (1649-1910
See the Chart of Joseon Kings and Related Korean Historical Dramas
FILM LOCATIONS
So that was just a quick overview of the palaces of Seoul. They have seen a lot of political shenanigans and bloodshed over the 500 years of Joseon history!
Gyeongbokgung is the largest palace. Changdeokgung holds the secret garden. Deoksugung has eclectic architecture. They are the three main palaces.
Filming for Korean historical dramas sometimes take place at the palaces when they are closed to the public.
But there are also film sets for historical dramas in the countryside. KBS has the largest historical film set in Korea in Mungyeong Saejae where dramas such as Deep Rooted Tree (SBS), Horse Doctor (MBC), and Sungkyunkwan Scandal (KBS2) were filmed.
The historical zombie drama Kingdom was filmed at several locations including Changdeokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace, and the KBS historical film set down at Mungyeong Saejae in Gyeongsang province.
see more from dramasrok about life in Korea on Facebook Pinterest and Instagram
