The best kimbap shop in Seoul?

 

 Kimbap shops are a great place to grab a quick cheap meal in Seoul. You can get a kimbap (rice and seaweed roll) with various fillings for as little as 1500 won. But there are LOADS of kimbap shops in Seoul with varying degrees of quality. (Mr. Kim thinks there are more than 1000 chains – but this is just a guess ;) ) So I can’t say that I’ve tried every chain. But I have been to quite a few and this weekend I found the best kimbap shop that I’ve been to so far. Thinly sliced crunchy vegetables with just enough spice. Really fab.  Continue reading “The best kimbap shop in Seoul?” »

동빵 Dong Bang: Poo Bread?

OK I’ve seen it all now – I was walking through Jongak underground station in Seoul when I noticed yet another stall selling baked goods to peckish commuters and shoppers. Nothing strange so far; you can buy all sorts of baked goodies in the underground: muffins, waffles, sweet potato pastries to name a few. And there are interesting snack combinations like coffee and stylish potato too. But this was the first time I have seen 동빵 Dong Bang: Poo Bread. Yes, you heard right.

That’s my bad translation of it anyway. But 동 dong does in fact refer to, well, “poo” (note the swirly dong/poo shape on the counter below and in the name logo ) and 빵 bang is bread. So welcome to poo bread. The bread isn’t made of poo (that would be weird). It’s a kind of waffle similar to 붕어빵 Bungeobang which are made in the shape of a fish and filled with sweet red bean paste available on streets stalls everywhere. They are served warm so perfect on a cold winter’s day. 

But rather than looking like fish Dong bang are patented shapes based on the dong bang characters (below) and one is the cute swirly shape recognised as poo in Korea (and Japan and possibly other countries too)

Above are the dong bang characters - Just in case you didn’t guess, the dong is on the head of the characters on the left :)

When you buy your dong bang you can choose from various fillings including red bean paste, chocolate, vanilla, corn, cheese, and strawberry. There’s also coffee to go – Americano, cappuccino, latte, caffe mocha, or a caramel Macchiato. But if you are not interested in a sweet waffle, they also sell 동빵 친구 dong bang chingu – friends of Dong bang – which include various types of spicy meats and sausages on sticks…

So when I first saw this shop I wondered WHY ON EARTH would they call their product dong bang?! Does it sound nice in Korean? I became fascinated with this idea of Dong bang and how this concept can work in Korea. I did see some people walking past the shop and giggling at the large dong on the counter and the dong shaped waffles on sale. But they were amused, they weren’t disgusted. I tried to imagine the same scenario in Britain. Poo bread anyone? No? Didn’t think so. So why is dong bang tempting to buy? I decided to investigate a little further.

First a note on pronunciation

Mr Kim explained that the two words dong 동 and bang 빵 DO sound cute together. But here is the twist and it is a bit confusing –  the actual spelling for dong (poo) is 똥 not 동. This changes the pronunciation and the nuance of the word. The word 똥 with the double d consonant (ssang-digeut) is harsh and you need umph behind you when you say this word. Whereas single d consonant  dong 동 is softer.  Listen to the different Korean sounds here. But within the context of the curly-wurly dong poo shape, dong (동) is recognized as dong (똥) but not in a nasty way because the pronunciation and spelling are different. (Is any of this MAKING SENSE? :? )

So dong sounds cute in Korean. It doesn’t seem to be a rude, uncomfortable, or embarrassing word to say even with the correct spelling. (Although probably not appropriate in formal situations ..)

I could only think of the word poo in the translation as I think it is the least offensive. And there are other meanings for poo in English. We have Winnie the Pooh for example. But he is shaped like a bear.

All other words –  ’sh*t’, ‘crap’, excrement, turd, or the hospital friendly ‘faeces’, or ‘stool’ – all sound icky to me.  :(  I could use the word ‘plop’, but I would feel silly and about 4 years old!

Another problem is the shape that represents the concept of dong/poo. The shape of dong is like a swirly soft chocolate ice-cream. The curly shape is inoffensive- even charming. And there are good connotations attached to dong. Dreaming of doing a dong is very good luck in Korea – If Mr Kim dreams of doing a dong, the very next morning he RUSHES to buy a lottery ticket. (This hasn’t brought any money in yet but I haven’t given up hope.) So it’s not unusual to see gold coloured dong key rings on sale for good luck. On the other hand, consider the shape of a British poo. (I can’t bring myself to include a picture so if you need an image please refer to Google :) ) The only place you would buy something in this shape is in a joke shop. No, not cute at all. And the only connotations I can think of are negative – like stepping on a dog poo. So I could never eat poo bread but I can eat dong bang with no trouble at all.

So the play on the sounds dong and bang and the cute recognisable shape of the curly dong make the snack tempting.  It stands out in an increasingly competitive baked goods market. And it definitely stands out – if they had been regularly shaped waffles, I wouldn’t have noticed the shop or written this post at all!

You can see some nice close up pics of the various waffles and interior of the shop on this Korean blog. Or go to the Dongbang website where they have some info in English too including a list of the outlets where the stalls are located. Bon appetit. :)

 

Eat raw oysters Korean style

I hate cold weather and winter in general but there is one good thing about this season in Korea – oysters. At this time of year oysters are plentiful in supermarkets and they even come free as side dishes in sashimi restaurants. Here ours were served raw in their shells with Korean red pepper paste and vinegar (chogochujang = gochujang with vinegar), sesame oil, minced raw garlic, and a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Lovely.

Stylish Potato and Coffee restaurant

I like the fact that restaurants in Korea often specialise in one kind of main ingredient. I think it’s better to do one dish really well, than to have a huge menu where most of the dishes are just OK.

Last night, for instance, we went to my favourite octopus restaurant that serves several octopus dishes – stir fried octopus in spicy sauce, savoury octopus pancakes, and octopus hot pot. The down side to this type of restaurant, of course, is if you go out in a group and someone doesn’t like octopus. Because there’s nothing else. (And there’s definitely NO vegetarian options).

But I still like the idea of specialising in one kind of food. On the way home last night I saw this restaurant  (well it’s more of a snack bar really) and the name of it made me smile: Miss & Mr Potato; Stylish Potato and Coffee.

What a cute name. But quite an odd combination – potato and coffee. Do you fancy going out for some stylish potato and coffee? Yes, I think I do.

송이버섯 Matsutake mushrooms from the Korean mountains

  My mother-in-law was given some 송이버섯 (songi pos-sot) Matsutake mushrooms picked from the mountains in the Korean countryside. :) Apparently the exact location in the mountains where these mushrooms grow is kept TOP secret – not surprising since they can be very expensive to buy! (the nicer the shape the more expensive they become apparently …)

Anyway, we were lucky to get some mushrooms too. They may not be the most beautifully shaped ones but still, they are lovely aromatic wild and woody mushrooms. And after all the chuseok traditional food last weekend we were ready for something different, so I made a fusion  dish – songi pos-sot and blue cheese pasta! with smoked salmon salad and a glass of wine. Very decadent.

dak bulgogi – Korean BBQ chicken

We often go out to dak galbi chicken restaurants but for some reason I had never tried dak bulgogi until this week. Both dishes are made with chicken cooked at the table but they are cooked differently.

닭갈비 dak galbi is chicken pieces stir-fried with vegetables (cabbage, carrot, onion, sweet potato) in a red spicy sauce on a hot plate. 닭 (dak – chicken) 갈비 (ribs) You can add other ingredients if you like such as (떡 deok) rice cakes, cheese, or noodles. And after  this you can order fried rice which is cooked in front of you on the same hot plate.

닭불고기 dak bulgogi is slightly spicy and sweet marinated chicken grilled on hot coals at the table. 닭 (dak – chicken)  불고기 (bulgogi – barbecued meat). These restaurants also serve pork and pork skin. The chicken is eaten in the same way as other BBQ meats – wrapped up in lettuce or a sesame leaf with slices of raw garlic, onion, and chili, and washed down with beer and soju of course. It was reasonably priced too -15,000 won for a serving for two people. I heard this is a popular place to go but it was quiet when we were there as it was around 3pm before the evening rush. So the waiter was able to come over and turn and cut the meat for us. (Usually customers have to do this themselves) Great food. But one thing to watch – I burned my knee under the table on the hot plate. I didn’t realise it would be hot under there too! I thought it would have a cover on it or something. Duh!

how to get there

here’s another blog with more pics and info about restaurant (in Korean)

Take subway line 2 to Shinchon station (between Hongik University station and Ewha Women’s University station) exit 2 or 4

 

 

Kwangjang Market

We went on another trip to Kwangjang market (Jongno 5 ga Seoul subway line 1) which is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of a traditional Korean market. There are lots of stalls here selling silks and linens but I like to come here to eat at a pojangmacha food stall. The rows of stalls run right around the market and sell all sorts of dishes including sashimi, mung bean pancakes, pig’s trotters, bibimbap, noodle soups, and sundae blood sausage ..

Continue reading “Kwangjang Market” »