For a while now, I’ve been wanting to go to Andong City, in Gyeongsangbuk-do. It was a centre for Confucianism during the Joseon period and many influential yangban noble families lived in the area at that time. These days there are still villages of traditional hanok houses there, but of course many have been turned into guest houses for tourists (like me 😉 ) wanting to get a taste of traditional life. We stayed for one night and I was determined to experience all the things that Andong is famous for: hanok houses, jimddak (chicken cooked in a soy-based soup), and Andong soju.
Queen Elizabeth 2 visited Andong in 1999 as it was considered to be the ‘most Korean’ place in the country. She planted a tree in the Hahoe Hanok village and there’s a plaque (and a tree) there to prove it.
But the hanok villages are outside Andong city centre. So driving into Andong, you wouldn’t think that it was an old, important city with all that history. The town centre looks like any other small town, with the main drag of square concrete buildings covered in signboards and tall apartment blocks.
Our plan was stay in the Hahoe village. Mr Kim chose the guest house after checking out some blogs on Naver. The proprietor said that they didn’t serve any food and that there were no restaurants nearby so we would have to eat before we arrived! To be honest even though Mr Kim repeated the fact that there would be NO restaurants in the village, I didn’t quite believe it. But it was true…
After we arrived in the city we headed over to the first tourist attraction on our list – Wolyeong Bridge.
According to the notice by the bridge, the Wolyeong Bridge (The Moonlight Bridge) is the longest walking bridge in Korea. It’s 387m and crosses over the Nakdong river. It was built here for people to enjoy the local landscape by moonlight. In the evening the bridge is lit up, so it is probably best to visit here after dark.
A little boat for tourists (with explanations in Korean) runs up and down the river. And across the bridge is a small village of peasant and yangban houses. There’s an ice storage (a kind of outdoor cellar dug into the mountain) that was built during King Yeongjo’s reign to preserve the sweet fish caught in the Nakdong River for the king.
One problem for non-Korean speaking visitors here is the lack of information in English. When we got over the bridge we came across these little bottles padlocked to a fence. But the information in English only stated that you can buy these ‘prayer’s wishing bottles’ at the ‘folk museum rest place’ nearby if you want to wish happiness for your loved ones.
However, the sign in Korean explained that these wishing bottles were inspired by a virtuous lady from the 16th century. When her husband died she was so sad that she cut off her hair and wove it with straw into a pair of shoes. She put the shoes into the coffin with her husband’s body. I do find this story a bit odd. I mean, why did she choose to weave shoes? And why weave her hair into it?
Anyway, the point was that she was showing loyalty and care to her dead husband and so she is presented as an example of a virtuous Joseon lady. Since Andong is the centre of Confucianism, there were other monuments and notices honouring people who had demonstrated Confucian values.
The area behind the bridge had a small selection of thatched house and tile-roofed houses with notices explaining who had lived there long ago.
Here, below, is a monument to another virtuous woman – Ms. Seo of Yi-cheon. It was erected in 1832 by Gyeongsang Provincial Governor to praise the ‘filial behaviour’ of Ms. Seo who was the wife of a middle class official.
He died soon after they married, but she diligently looked after her parents-in-law who unfortunately became mentally unstable after the death of their son and they soon died, too. At this point, Ms Seo also wanted to end her own life but she realised that someone had to hold a funeral for her family so she organised the funeral before taking her own life. This was considered to be a great example of ‘filial piety’.
There were few tourists when we arrived in Andong. Partly, perhaps, because it’s off season and so a bit too late to catch the autumn leaves. But also, with most of the signage only in Korean this area doesn’t seem very foreigner-friendly either. It is one place that I would recommend visiting with a tour group.
Grilled mackerel is another famous dish in the area and there were a row of restaurants opposite the bridge area serving it so we stopped here for food. I really enjoyed the mackerel, juicy, meaty and not too salty. Just right.
So Hahoe village is about 40 minutes by car from Andong City. Cars are not allowed to enter the village during the day, but guests staying at the guest houses are allowed to enter in the evening. That was lucky because it would have been quite a hike from the car park at the entrance to the village to our accommodation…
A GUEST HOUSE IN HAHOE VILLAGE
This was the view from the front of out guest house the next morning. The rooms were very small – a room for two people was just big enough to spread two futons on the floor. And there was no fridge or cooking facilities or even kettle in the room. The floor was heated so it wasn’t cold. But the only modern convenience was a small TV. There were clean sheets on the futons and we were given a bottle of water each by the elderly proprietor when we arrived.
The guest houses don’t tend to serve food at all (no dinner or breakfast) so guests have to bring anything they want to eat themselves. The next day when we walked around the village I saw a couple of guest houses advertising food but this didn’t seem to be the norm.
Once outside our room (the one with the white doors, below right) you are standing under the eaves of the house in the open air. But even though it was quite a cold day, and there was only a thin wooden door separating us from the outdoors, it didn’t feel cold in the room at all!
Shoes must be left outside the house on the ground before stepping up into the house. I woke up in the middle of the night to hear heavy rain and started panicking about the shoes getting wet outside. So I got up to investigate. But the eaves of the house were long enough to shelter the shoes from the rain. That was a relief! 😕
The bathroom was shared between three guest rooms and was at the end room of the building (below, far left under the thatched roof). So you have to put on your shoes, or the plastic slippers provided, and run down to the end of the house if you need to pop to the loo in the night. (And if it’s raining – you’ll get a bit wet!)
Chinese characters expressing hopes for good fortune were painted on paper and attached to the wooden doors leading from the front of the house to the inner courtyard. Originally, guests would have stayed at the front of the house and the servants and owners lived in rooms around the inner courtyard.
This is the inner courtyard. Hanok houses can be divided into tile-roofed houses (for noblemen) and thatched houses for peasants. The tiled roof (giwa-jip) is where the owners of the hanok guest house live and the one on the thatched roofed house was where we, the guests, stayed (and where the servants would have lived!)
The advantage of staying the night in the village is that you can get up early and soak in the atmosphere of the village before tourists arrive. The village was very quiet in the morning and beautiful with mist still hanging over the mountains.
Thatched-roofed houses were for the lower classes. The tourist maps show several routes that can be taken around the village to look at various homes of well-known noble families from the Joseon period.
Many of the government officials had homes in Andong. It’s quite a large village and you could spend up to two hours walking around to see everything.
To me, the quintessential early winter scene in Korea is a persimmon tree with bare branches, the leaves have fallen but persimmon fruit cling on to the bare branches.
I wonder who has been writing graffiti on the hanok house walls?
A narrow alleyway with a tile-roofed house on one side and a thatched house on the other.
This was a picturesque scene in the village. But after a couple of hours of walking around, we headed out to get something to eat. (Andong is also famous for Soju and there’s a small soju museum in the town centre. It is very small though and I wouldn’t recommend making a special trip just to go there.)
The must-try food of Andong is Jimddak, chicken and potato cooked in a soy sauce based soup. In Seoul this dish is too sweet for my taste so we don’t usually eat it in Seoul but we had to try it while we were here. There’s a Jimddak alley in the market of Andong town centre where all the shops serve this dish.
We just randomly chose one of the restaurants here in the market. You can choose between sweet, regular, or spicy jimddak. We chose the spicy one. It’s served with rice on the side which you can use to mop up the sauce. Very good and a reasonable price – the medium size pan of chicken was 25,000 won and was more than enough for two if not three people.
Outside the shops the adjummas are cooking the jimddak on stoves.
A night in a guest house in Andong is certainly an experience. But it’s something I would only do once. A trip to Andong needs preparation as places of interest are not that close together and since we had to take food with us to the guest house it was a bit inconvenient. Still, that was partly the point – to experience something different!
It would be tricky without a car to get around. And I can imagine that it gets fairly busy during the peak season too. The best part of the experience was walking around the quiet village paths in the morning, but the mood would have been spoilt if there had been lots of other tourists around…. To enjoy the area it’s best to get up early and walk around before the crowds arrive.
Andong is also famous for Soju so I was expecting to find more kinds of soju available in the restaurants. I enjoyed the food that we tried, though. The Jimddak and the mackerel were very tasty indeed.