Joseon tombs in Gangnam, Seoul

The modern buildings in Gangnam encroach on the Royal Tombs of the Joseon world. But for me, the juxtaposition of old and new was one of the interesting things about visiting these tombs.

Most tombs of the Joseon kings are outside Seoul. Tombs need a lot of space and greenery, but these were built here when the south of the River Han wasn’t part of the capital – it was just surrounding countryside. How things have changed!

A red gate (signifying holiness) stands at the entrance to the stone path that leads to the sacrificial building and the tomb.

The tombs nestle amongst shops and office blocks in a huge area of pine trees and 500 year-old ginko trees. They are Seulleung and Jeongneung – the tombs of King Seongjong (r.1469-1494) and his second queen, Queen Jeonghyeon, as well as the tomb of King Jungjong ( r.1506-1544).

The stone path leading up to the tomb is divided into two —the elevated side is for the dead King and the lower one is for living people. So that means that NO ONE should walk on the elevated part.

The signs are clear but visitors don’t always obey the rules and there have been sightings of mere mortals stomping merrily down the spirit walkway… (I don’t know what happens if you break these rules as I am a rule follower!)

Everything has a meaning including the colours and design of the building.

The small sculptures of monkeys and other animals on the eaves of the sacrificial building, called japsang, are meant to exorcise evil spirits.

Although other tombs including the tomb of King Sejong can be seen close up, these tombs are all fenced off.

So we have to be content with peeking over the gate into the private world. A stone military officer with a sword, stone sheep and tigers surround the tomb and are guardians of the dead King.

There are lots of paths through the surrounding woods with not a car or Louis Vuitton handbag in sight!

So although it’s not free to get in – it costs 1000 won – it’s definitely worth popping in for a walk and a break from the city. And for 10,000 won you can get a pass with unlimited access to the grounds for a year.

Definitely worth it, I think.