My First Fusion Drama

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 These days I’m interested in Sageuk historical dramas set in the Joseon period. (1392 – 1910) And I’m also really enjoying my first fusion drama - Rooftop Prince (SBS Wed/Thurs 10pm). I’m not usually into anything to do with time travel but this drama is adorable! The Joseon prince and his entourage arrive in modern day Seoul where the prince suddenly sees his princess (who he thought drowned in a lake back in his Joseon palace). Long story, anyway, well worth watching. Great music too.

Some Posts on Joseon

Did Dong Yi and King Sukjong really have a romance?
Concubine Ranks in the Joseon Period
Jang Hui Bin – Is she pure evil? Or does she act out of love?
King Sukjong and Jang Hee Bin’s Tombs
Jeonju – Home of King Taejo, the First King of the Joseon Dynasty
Searching for original portraits of King Sukjong
The Secret of Joseon Portraits
Portraits of Gisaengs
Book: Great Korean Portraits
China and Korea Ruling Dynasties and Relations Chart
Chart of Joseon Kings and Related Sageuk Dramas
Jongmyo Shrine
Tomb of King Sejong the Great in Yeoju

Kwangjang Market

We went on another trip to Kwangjang market (Jongno 5 ga Seoul subway line 1) which is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of a traditional Korean market. There are lots of stalls here selling silks and linens but I like to come here to eat at a pojangmacha food stall. The rows of stalls run right around the market and sell all sorts of dishes including sashimi, mung bean pancakes, pig’s trotters, bibimbap, noodle soups, and sundae blood sausage ..

Continue reading “Kwangjang Market” »

Sunday May 6 was Jongmyo Daeje

Jongmyo Daeje Royal Procession

The memorial day service for all the Joseon kings

We visited Jongmyo recently which is the Royal Ancestral Shrine for the Joseon dynasty. Visitors usually have to pay an entry fee and visit the shrine in an organised tour. But on Sunday it was open to the public for the yearly memorial ceremony. I usually avoid any event in Seoul where there will be loads of people because I can’t handle large crowds. But the Jongmyo Daejo was the biggest and most important memorial rite held for royalty during the Joseon dynasty. And the ceremony is still held every year on the first Sunday in May (and once again in November), so although I wasn’t sure how much of the ceremony we would be able to see, we headed downtown where the procession began at 11:30 am from Gyeongbokgung Palace. Continue reading “Sunday May 6 was Jongmyo Daeje” »

A Korean Sunday Lunch

In England, when I was growing up, Sundays felt like a special occasion because our family used to eat a traditional Sunday lunch.  It’s a lot of effort though to prepare the roast meat – beef, pork, lamb, or chicken – roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and gravy. And you can’t have Sunday dinner without apple pie and custard, treacle pudding, or some other calorific but tasty dessert.  I like this tradition and Sundays don’t really feel the same anymore without Sunday dinner. I sometimes attempt to cook one here, but it’s a lot of work and you need quite a big oven and lots of pots and pans – I have a small oven and not a lot of space so that’s why I don’t make it very often – that’s my excuse anyway…

As far as I know there is no tradition for eating a particular meal on Sundays in Korea. Anything goes.  So after a leisurely start to the day and peering sadly into an empty fridge, we decided to go to a cheonggukjang restaurant for our Korean Sunday lunch.

The restaurant was busy with some smartly dressed folk (they’d probably been to church), a few customers in hiking gear (they’d probably been up the local mountain) some families with young children, and us. The restaurant has no menu as there is only one dish to choose from – 청국장 cheonggukjang soybean soup with rice and side dishes. OK. We’ll have that then…

top left: 누룽지 nurungji – First we were served this warm drink. It’s made by adding hot water to the layer of crispy  rice that gets stuck to the bottom of the rice pot after the rice has been cooked. Salt or sugar is not added so I’d describe the taste as quite soothingly mild smoky popcorn :)

top right: 청국장 cheonggukjang – fermented soybean soup. There is nothing mild or bland about this feisty soup. It has a very pungent smell so it’s not for the faint-hearted. In fact the smell of cheonggukjang permeates throughout its restaurants and lingers on its customers so much so that it features in an advert on TV advertising spray fabric freshener: two office workers come back from lunch and their colleague looks up and says ‘Oh! cheonggukjang for lunch?‘ The two ladies then scuttle off embarrassed that their clothes smell. Cheonggukjang is similar to 된장 doenjang fermented soybean paste but not as salty, a lot smellier, and it has whole soybeans in it. It is cooked with tofu, courgettes, leek and (of course) chillies. Side dishes in this picture are fried pork and youlmu kimchi – a summer kimchi made with radish leaves. Read more about kimchi here. 

bottom left: There are LOADS of vegetables in this meal. It comes with a huge bowl of lettuce, cucumber and bean sprouts. Add the rice and mix it all up like bibimbap adding some kim (dried seaweed) and sesame oil. Then the cheonggukjang can be eaten from a separate bowl or ladled on top of the rice and eaten together with the rice.

bottom right: 깻잎전 kennipjon sesame leaf pancake side dish with a soy sauce and vinegar dip.

This is a lot of food and very filling – (especially with a bottle of makkoli) It reminded me of how I used to feel after Sunday dinner back home – stuffed! So all that was left to do was go home for a rest and look for our fabric freshener spray ….

 

5 things I learned about kimchi at the COEX Kimchi Museum

When I told some of my students that I went to the kimchi museum last weekend, they said, ‘there’s a kimchi museum?” So maybe it’s not that famous. But in fairness, it is quite small and modestly tucked away in the COEX shopping mall.

Most of the museum is made up of information boards and cabinets of models of plastic kimchi. But there’s also a tasting room (with an appropriately kimchi aroma) and a room for making kimchi that’s open from 10 am till 6 pm. And you can have your picture taken eating kimchi from the chopsticks of a life size model of a lady in a hanbok, if you like. (This was quite popular.)

There was a lot of information to take in. But here are the five things I learnt about kimchi at the Kimchi Museum:

1. Kimchi follows Korean cooking philosophy based on five colours and tastes

Korean cooking colour sense is based on 5 different colours – blue, red, yellow, black, white. And Korean food has created a unique garnish and seasoning culture by separately applying the five colours with five tastes ( hot, sweet, sour, salty, bitter) to the recipe. Kimchi combines the five  tastes and colours with Korean cabbage – white radish, bluish green onion, yellowish garlic and ginger, blackish salted fish, and red hot pepper. Continue reading “5 things I learned about kimchi at the COEX Kimchi Museum” »

More experimenting with the Hurom Juicer

I’m experimenting with different vegetables trying to get the perfect juice for breakfast. This morning’s juice was one and a half carrots, 3 small ripe tomatoes, and half a Korean pear. It was quite sweet – perhaps a bit too sweet for me. Next time I’ll try some orange or lemon to give it a bit more of a kick. Still good though and it was a fabulous colour to cheer us up on what looks to be another rainy day.

 

 

 

The new rooftop flat in ‘Rooftop Prince’

Last week in episode 8 of Rooftop Prince (SBS Wed/Thurs 21:55) ) we got to see the posh newly constructed flat that Chairman Yeo has had built for her ‘grandson’. Rooftop flats are usually the cheapest kind of accommodation in Korea – they look like a small box built on top of a flat roof. So when we see a character in a Korean drama (usually the heroine) going up the narrow rickety steps to the roof, we know straight away that she’s poor!

But I’ve never thought the rooftop flats looked that bad. At least they have some open space outside where people can sit or hang washing and there’s probably a good view of the city from up there too. On the other hand, they are small and cramped and look like they might be cold in the winter with all those thin external walls – even with ondol underfloor heating. And they are often up hilly roads away from bus stops and stations.

But in last week’s episode we really got to see the striking difference between a cheapo rooftop flat and luxury rooftop accommodation. If rooftop accommodation looked like this, everyone would want to live there (below). The old tiny flat where the characters were living has been knocked down and a new deluxe model built in its place. Apparently it took the crew only 4 days to build the new set. I read an article about this on the SBS website and I’ve tried to translate it here below. In this exercise I focused on highlighting vocabulary related to drama production.

[옥탑방 왕세자] 새로 태어난 옥탑방, 럭셔리 ‘옥탑궁’으로 변신

‘Rooftop Prince’ From a rooftop room, a new luxury ‘rooftop palace’ is born Continue reading “The new rooftop flat in ‘Rooftop Prince’” »

Hurom Slow Juicer

I can spend hours watching the shopping channels here convincing myself that I absolutely can’t live without a set of 50 glass containers with plastic lids or some form of foldaway exercise equipment. But then I have to accept that we don’t have room for much more in this flat. Recently a popular item on sale has been the Hurom slow juicer, a Korean brand. Although I like the idea of drinking a healthy juice every morning, in reality I’ve always thought it would be more trouble than it’s worth. I tried to blend some tomatoes once and ended up with a pulpy, sour, pale pink mess. And I can’t be bothered with all the cleaning up afterwards either. Or so I thought.

My sister-in-law has been RAVING about this juicer. In fact she was so impressed that she bought one for us too! And I never thought I would see the day but I am now juicing on a regular basis. I’m even spending my free time searching the internet for new and exciting recipes. The colour of the juice is so rich. And the juice itself is naturally sweet. I’ve been scouring the supermarkets for green leaves and other veggies and fruit. And I found kale, so I made kale and apple juice. Look at the colour of this…

Kale on its own would be too bitter though. It definitely needs the apple. This juicer works differently to other ones I’ve seen. You don’t need to push the veggies down into it. Just drop the pieces into the top and the machine does the rest. It’s not very noisy either. And it’s easy to clean. So far I’ve also tried carrots, tomatoes, oranges, and cabbage. Can’t wait to try more combinations. See more information on how the Hurom juicer works here.

Samsung Life Insurance Building

 

This is a  good meeting place in Seoul since the building is so distinctive. Jongno Tower/Samsung Life Insurance Building is opposite Bosingak Bell Pavilion   and by Jongak Station (subway line 1). A glass elevator (sweaty palms) can take you up to the 33rd floor and the Top Cloud bar and Fusion Restaurant. I haven’t eaten here but I have been for some overpriced drinks  several times. The seating is cheapo plastic and the drinks aren’t great, but it’s the location and view that you pay for. And the toilets – I especially recommend visiting the bathroom here. Because this is without a doubt the most impressive ladies loo I have ever visited. The walls are made of glass  from top to bottom giving an amazing view right out across the city. Even the lighting is cool and the design of the washbowls is ultra modern. I can’t go too close to the window with my fear of heights though. My hands are sweating as I type just thinking about it.

An interesting fact about the Korean Alder tree

How often do you think about trees? On a hot day walking around Seoul under the scalding sun I wish there were some trees to shade me. And I love to go for a walk and smell pine trees or Cedar wood. And I hate to see trees (and mountains) being cut down to make way for yet more construction. But I don’t know all that much about trees. And I don’t  think there are that many trees I could actually name. As we were walking around the grounds of the tomb of King Sejong the Great, we saw a Korean alder tree. (I knew it was an alder because it said so on the sign.) The Korean name is 오리나무. O-ri-namu. 오 (o) means 5, 리 (ri) is a unit of Korean measurement, and 나무 (namu) means tree. And apparently, years ago these trees were planted 5 ri apart along the roads so that travellers could work out how far they had gone. Hence the name ‘5 ri tree’. Clever idea.

 

But how far was a ri?

The ri originally came from China (li 里). According to wiki, in China the li was not a fixed measurement at first and could vary depending on the amount of effort needed to cover the distance. I couldn’t find any information to suggest if this was the same in Joseon. Or what distance a ri was during this time. But the ri is still used as a measurement in Korea today where 10 ri = about 4.5 km.